Feb 25
With the unseasonably warm weather this week, perhaps it time to start thinking about routine Spring maintenance. It never hurts to start early so those inevitable surprises cannot delay planned pool opening.
My initial checks include:
- inspect pool tiles, surroundings and gutters for signs of ice or freeze damage;
- check pump room for pipe leaks or leaky valves;
- open sand filters and check sand quality and level;
- open DE filters and check integrity of the grids;
- open cartridge filters and check cartridges for damage or wear;
- check/ run pool pump to ensure well-lubricated bearings and silent operation;
- check transformers and power supplies for water damage or corroded terminals;
- inspect fuse box and ensure operability of trip switches and earth leakage units;
- make preliminary inspection of pool lights and determine lamps that need replacing;
- ensure the pool water is still in pristine condition with no trace of algae.
Any major problems discovered now can be comfortably dealt with well in advance of the swimming season, when pool service is both hard to get and rushed.
Tags: spring , maintenance , fuse , leaks , pumpRelated pool posts:
February 25th, 2008 at 12:45
That looks like a comprehensive and handy list.
Thanks
February 26th, 2008 at 17:46
I just been thinking the same. With a day or two of warm weather I want to start getting my pool ready for the new swimming season.
Thanks for the checklist there.
March 6th, 2008 at 02:36
Great list, thanks a lot.
March 18th, 2008 at 20:43
What is the best pool water test kit to get?
Thanks
May 19th, 2008 at 22:05
Here is step by step instructions on how to open an inground pool
1. Remove all water, leaves and debris from the top of the cover. To remove the water you can use a submersible cover pool or basement sump pump.
2. Remove the cover from the pool. Try to carefully remove the cover without getting any extra debris that remains on the top of the cover into the pool or you will have to clean that out later. If some dirty water does get in, it’s not a problem. Using chemicals later will sanitize your pool
3. Lay the cover out on your lawn or nearby area and use water, carwash soap and a brush and wash down your cover. By doing this you will ensure a longer life for your pool cover which can be a hefty investment
4. If you are using water tubes to secure your pool cover, make sure you empty those and dry them out before storage.
5. Now go around your pool and make sure all plugs are removed from any and all openings in your pool
6. Re-install all of your deck equipment including your ladders, diving board, rails, etc. And make sure you lubricate all bolts to prevent from rusting throughout the summer months.
7. Re-install all your skimmer baskets and eye-ball fittings
8. Hook up your pump and filter and any additional equipment such as a booster pump or a chlorine dispenser and make sure all the plugs are securely in place
9. Fill up your pool if you pool has been drain or has lost any water over the winter.
10. Turn on the power to your pool. At this point make sure the system starts up. Check for any leaks or drips, make sure the ground wires are properly connected to the pump and make sure you pump is prime.
11. Backwash your filter. After backwashing if you have a DE filter, add more fresh DE according to the manufacturers instructions.
12. Now it’s time to add the startup chemicals. I would recommend to just simply shock your pool using 2 lbs of shock for every 10,000 gallons of pool water or 5 gallons of liquid shock per 20,000 gallons of pool water
13. Take a sample of your pool water to your nearest pool dealer and ask for a water test to get your pool water completely balanced.
14. Let your pool run at least 24 hours and vacuum out any debris. Retest the water and if everything checks out, go swimming!
July 16th, 2008 at 16:38
In addition to Swim University recommenations, if you own a salt water pool chlorinator be sure to check the salt level in the pool. As a general rule of thumb, if the pool water tastes salty, then you probably do not need to add any pool salt. Also be sure to check the cell for health and cleanliness. Limescale buid-up is a common problem and a mild acetic acid (eg. vinegar will do) bath is probably required prior to opening. Also, if you operate a heat pump on your pool, be sure to check refrigerant level with a certified air conditioning tech prior to opening. Happy swimming!
July 25th, 2008 at 15:16
In response to Kathy, strips work really well as they break down the composition of the water into easy color coded results. “5-way” test strips are a good choice as opposed to “3-way” test strips, simply because they test for more compositions.
October 3rd, 2008 at 06:16
yeah i agree, 5 way strips are the way to go
November 14th, 2008 at 23:10
Aloha, I’m a new owner of a pool in Hawaii and wanted to know how long should I run the pump/day? With soaring electrical cost, especially in Hawaii, I want to operate the pump only as long as it typically takes to keep it clean.
Second question; does running the pump have any affect on the chemicals required, that is, if I run it more, does it require less chemicals to control alge or if I run it less, will I need to add more chemicals to the control alge and the other nasty critters found in one’s pool.
Many thanks,
Eric
February 7th, 2009 at 20:07
Both Spring Start up lists above are well-done. Regarding Step #3 of Swim University’s list, it might be better to skip using car wash soap and purchase a cleaner that is specifically designed for cleaning pool covers. These cleaners provide the following benefits: 1- any chemical residue left on the cover will not throw off pool water’s chemical balance when the cover is re-installed the following winter. 2- specialty cleaners have a conditioner in them which helps to preserve the vinyl (if your cover is made of vinyl). 3- Most of these cleaners also include a deodorizer that helps keep the cover smelling fresher, longer.
When it comes time to store your winter cover, many people find that storing them in a large clean plastic trash can works best. In fact, one of the best ways to store a cover is to fill the can with water AFTER the cover is placed within it. Filling the can with water doesn’t hurt the cover at all, and the water keeps rodents from wanting to build their nests in the can/cover. You can pour the last of your cover cleaner chemical into the can,too, as a deordorizer and conditioner.
Regarding Test Strips: They have become much more reliable in recent years. Make sure that they are stored out of the sun and kept completely dry. Contact with UV rays and/or humidity may distort the test result. Replace Test strips every 3 months if you haven’t already used them up.
To Eric in HI: Typically, a properly sized pump will “turn your pool over” one time every 8 hours. For instance, if your pool contains 18,000 gals, your pump should move at least 18,000 gals in 8 hours. It’s a good idea to run your pump daily for as many hours as it takes to turn your water over at least one time. The older your pump, the less water it will move regardless of what the manual says. The best way to enjoy your pool is to be pro-active and use prevention. Don’t skimp on pump time, and never skimp on chemicals. Where chemicals are concerned, it’s best to think about a 3-Step Proram: 1- Always keep your chlorine level at 1.5ppm or better (higher than 3ppm is excessive and doesn’t provide much benefit) for a residential pool. 2- Never skimp on a good quality algaecide, even when the water looks great and you think it won’t hurt to skip a week’s dosage and save a few pennies. 3- Make a plan to “Shock” (or superchlorinate) your pool once ever week or two. This last step is like sending in reinforcements just when Steps 1 and 2 begin to weary against the attacks of weather, swimmer wastes, and other types of contaminations all week long.
March 10th, 2009 at 18:49
About the nasty stains that are left behind when you remove your safety cover: dont spend too much time trying to scrub them off. The UV light from our sun get rid of them.
And how come sun tan lotion isnt on the list.
April 11th, 2009 at 14:46
How can I get rid of the white film on my vinyl pool. We had to drain it this year to change out some of the legs, and I was surprised at the white film on the inside.
Thanks
May 12th, 2009 at 08:24
good information. I recently moved into a house; the pool had not been opened in 2 years. It was lime green. Now the pump isn’t working. It worked for a while, then just gave out. Any ideas?
May 13th, 2009 at 09:45
This is our first year with a Salt water pool. What start up chemicals are required?
May 14th, 2009 at 02:50
Just started the season this weekend, awesome weather here. Love my pool
enjoy the summer guys
May 19th, 2009 at 18:16
There is not very much pressure from my jets in the pool, what do i need to do?
June 15th, 2009 at 23:51
To Sandy Benham: You should check out YouTube. I have seen a number of videos that have people showing step by step what chemicals are needed for a salt water pool
June 30th, 2009 at 14:56
Great list. I wish that I had found it in time to direct our clients to it.
In addition, I would also suggest an inspection of the interior pool surface to ensure that no loose or chipped paint/coasings will clog the filter too.
Enjoy the rest of the season.
July 2nd, 2009 at 09:50
Please help me, I dont want my filters on 12 hours a day, Is there any way I can beat SUN TAN Loation/OIL, MY PH AND Chlorine are perfect, But have cloudy water in deep end of pool all the time, can only assume it Sun Tan Cream
July 15th, 2009 at 05:33
i am happy to know that there quite a few important things that we have to take care in order to open a pool
thanks for that useful information
July 16th, 2009 at 12:32
your blog is very informative especially for those who need to know
how to take care of their pools with the right chemicals
July 30th, 2009 at 19:39
Very true, I have.. Weather=Awesome!
Enjoy the rest of the summer!
July 31st, 2009 at 18:43
Glad I came across your post several months ago.
Your suggestion to check the pool lights came in handy! I checked mine, and found that 4 of 6 were out. I replaced them and all worked well. My brother-in-law recently had an annual summer gathering and he had a number of lights out, which really looked bad.
Thanks.
August 12th, 2009 at 19:59
Pool season coming to a close. My mom received info on this and is ecstatic! After 25 years of miserable and messy openings. Excited to try.
September 25th, 2009 at 10:20
I have a company that cleans pools – we had problems during summer with one of these pool – it was cloudy and took some time to become cristal clear – clients used it constantly and some went back to UK and now say they have white marks on their skin could it have been due to chemicals in the pool. My company operates in the Algarve and the chemicals we had while swimming is permitted is never in excess – can you help ??
thanks
October 12th, 2009 at 13:40
Thanks for this great list!
October 28th, 2009 at 09:12
Great list for all to follow when opening up their pools for the season.
November 3rd, 2009 at 11:04
We all know that getting the tarp off without letting all the gunk get into the pool is a big challenge. Try this. After pumping off the tarp, put your garden hose BEHIND the tarp and begin filling the pool. You want to fill the pool to the VERY top…..so its starting to overflow! The tarp will float to the top too and you can simply “slide” it off! Don’t worry about the excess water, since you’re gonna be backwashing several times after vacuuming. OR you can vacuum with the pump set to “drain” and pump the dirt directly out the discharge pipe. PLUS, with the water level above the normal “scum line”, you can use this to your advantage by using the water for cleaning/scrubbing the liner that is normally dry and gets pollution baked onto it.
November 19th, 2009 at 03:22
it helps me a lot about my pool issues. before i have a pool liner installation
December 9th, 2009 at 13:07
Great punchlist!
February 11th, 2010 at 11:00
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